Francois Chidaine 'Clos Baudoin' Vouvray 2009
"Incorporating the former Poniatowski estate's oldest (70 year) vines and traditionally its signature wine, the 2009 Vouvray sec Clos Baudoin - which, like the corresponding 'Les Argiles' might, Chidaine says, be labeled 'sec' to clarify its style - successfully integrates citrus rind and pip and fruit pit bitterness as well as adamant chalkiness into a palpably dense and as yet at best in small part scrutable matrix. This Chenin carved from stone nevertheless evinces a succulence of quince, grapefruit, and pineapple that anticipates harmonious richness for a decade or more. It finishes with implacable persistence. Will the ostensibly lesser Les Argiles blend retain the edge in quality in 2009 thanks to its cooler, more water-retentive soils of origin? Certainly both will merit following and welcome comparisons over the coming decade if not beyond." 91+/100 Robert Parker "A still youthfully energetic Francois Chidaine - for more about whose methodology and recent history see my report in issue 172 - has continued to hone his long-ago manifest talents, even as (together with his cousin Nicolas) he oversees two estates (one formerly that of Prince Poniatowski in Vouvray, which accounts for 30% of total production). Based on their performance in cask, his 2009s - which weren't harvested much earlier than his 2008s - surpass those of his Vouvray and Montlouis neighbors (many of whom bottled their wines in spring) for refreshment, clarity, precision, and minerality, even though alcohol levels center around a for these appellations relatively high 13.5-14%." Wine Advocate