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Joh. Jos. Prüm 2018

Prüm is without question one of the finest estates in the Mosel. Founded by Johann Josef Prüm in 1911, the winery rapidly built a reputation for its racy, pure expressions of Riesling grown on these extraordinarily steep, slate slopes in the heart of the Mosel. Today the estate is run by Katharina, who watches over their 13.5 hectares of vines (including some rare ungrafted vines). The family’s holdings include many of the Mittelmosel’s most famous sites: Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Graacher Domprobst, Bernkasteler Lay, Bernkasteler Badstube and Bernkasteler Bratenhöfchen. Yields are low, with the harvest often stretching to late November. The winemaking is meticulous and the wines are known for their purity of fruit as well as their distinctive mineral character.

“The wines, whether a modest Kabinett or an opulent Beerenauslese, are the epitome of filigree elegance: light in body but intense in flavour, exquisitely balanced and precisely tuned, and capable of the most extra-ordinary longevity.  With the rise of so many excellent winemakers in the region, one might have supposed that J.J. Prüm, with its profound conservatism, might have been overtaken and left behind. Not a bit of it. The Estate remains where it has been for decades: at the summit.”
— Stephen Brook, The Wines of Germany

Tasting 2018 and 2019 chez JJ Prüm was one of the highlights of my Mosel trip in September. However, I decided to taste the highest predicates only in early 2021 and to focus entirely on Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese, which is the core of the production here. I don't know which wine I should pick out here, but I assume I have rarely tasted better Kabinett wines here than the 2019s, namely the Wehlener Sonnenuhr, the Graacher Himmelreich and the Bernkasteler Badstube. Among the wide range of great Auslesen, I'd like to draw your attention to the iconic Wehlener Sonnenuhr, whose Gold Caps from both 2019 and 2018 are fabulous. I'll be back here in late winter for the rest of the 2018s and 2019s as well as for a range of auctioned wines about which I will report next spring.
— Stephan Reinhardt, RobertParker.com

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